Positano is hands down the prettiest city I’ve ever seen. It’s a cliff side village nestled into the Amalfi Coast that’s best known for its steep and narrow streets, picturesque beaches, lemon trees and undeniable beauty. If you’re looking for a romantic European getaway, Positano should be at the very top of your list.
HOW WE GOT THERE
Getting to Positano can be a little tricky, but there are a few different options. Most people get to Positano by route of Naples and, depending on where you start your journey, you can get to Naples via train or plane. Once you arrive in Naples, there are three main ways to get to Positano:
- Bus: You can grab a bus directly from the airport or train station starting at $40 per person (typically more in the summer months).
- Taxi: Taxis are available at both the airport and train station and are around $100 each way.
- Private Car: Car cost depends on the company you use, but typically around $150 each way. Many tour companies offer a bundled deal and will add on additional stops such as a side trip to Pompeii for a small additional fee.
We booked a private car through Rainbow Limos, a family run limo company on the Amalfi Coast. To this day, it’s one of the best transportation decisions I’ve ever made. Not only were they a door to door service, but we had the option to add an additional stop onto our journey. We saw that they could take us from the Naples train station to Positano with a 3 hour stop in Pompeii baked in the middle. Pompeii was on our bucket list so we were sold!
Booking was so easy and effortless and they were quick to respond to all emails. When we arrived at the Naples train station our driver was waiting there with a personalized sign and we were quickly on our way. As we wove through the hills of the Amalfi Coast, our driver told about the history of Italy, his favorite spots in Positano and even stopped a few times for photo ops! Here we are together–the three amigos.
WHERE TO STAY
There are a ton of hotel options in Positano! Making a decision can be a bit overwhelming if you don’t know the lay of the land or standard cost, so I’m here to help!
Location: When booking your hotel, you’ll have to decide if you want a hotel overlooking the main beach {Spiaggia Grande} or the smaller beach {Laurito Beach}. I would recommend the main beach since that’s where most of the tourist attractions are. Plus, if you’ve seen a photo of Positano, chances are you saw the beautiful cliffside view that lines Spiaggia Grande.Once you pick a spot, you’ll want to decide on a hotel that’s located at the bottom, middle or very top of the hill. I would recommend a hotel in the middle of the hill. You get the iconic Positano views without the excessive calf workout!
Cost: The hotels in the area are pretty pricey, especially if you’re traveling during prime tourist time {April-September}. They typically range from $200-$600 a night and the luxury hotels may even be more {they also tend to have more amenities}. Make sure you shop around and check Tripadvisor for reviews before booking anything! I’ve also heard good things about Airbnb in the area, so that’s always an option as well.
Our Hotel: We decided to book at Hotel Savoia and it was AMAZING. Situated in the middle of the hill overlooking the Mediterranean and on the last bit of road before you hit the pedestrian only area, this hotel is in the perfect location. It’s steps away from the main tourist area that’s flooded with boutiques and restaurants, steps from Piazza dei Mulini and only minutes from the beach.
The hotel was gorgeous with a chic Mediterranean style featuring majolica flooring and beautiful decor throughout. The hotel had been family run since 1936 and you could see that in every employee encounter. Everyone was extremely hospitable, whether it was during the check-in process or at the on-site bar and restaurant.
The hotel had a reasonable rate for the area {we paid about $215 a night}, served free breakfast each morning and the view from our room was to die for. Make sure you request a top floor room with a sea or Positano view {we had room 410 if you wanted to ask for a specific one}. We spent so much time on our balcony just taking in the view, reading our books and sipping on wine.
FOOD:
The food in Positano was incredible. I still have dreams of the lobster, clams, prawns and handmade pasta dishes. Did I mention the lobster? Here were some of my top spots to wine and dine.
Le Sirenuse: A luxury boutique hotel that has some of the best panoramic views of the city. We stopped by for a quick drink before dinner and took in the view from the lobby balcony.
Ristorante Max This gorgeous dinner spot is located in the main pedestrian area, down a tight alleyway and in the midst of an art gallery. The space is a little tight and it’s the type of place where you’re not sure which fork to use for what, but it was so delicious and perfect for a night out. We shared a few things, but one of the best items was the Italian Seafood Stew which was filled with fresh clams, prawns, lobster and shrimp.
La Pergola: A beachfront restaurant that’s best for a casual lunch and a quick break from the Positano sun. There are a ton of restaurants by the beach, most of which are touristy, and this one was no exception. Tons of beach goers filled the space with big brimmed hats and coverups, ordering pizzas and limoncellos. Even though it was touristy, it was very well priced for a quick bite. We got a fresh bruschetta appetizer and two small pizzas!
La Zagara: A sweet little spot with a charming patio that’s surrounded by orange blossoms and citrus trees. If you’re in the market for a cup of espresso, afternoon pastry or a refreshing aperol spritz, this is your place.
II Ritrovo: I saved the best for last! If you are looking for a romantic Italian dinner that is a true Positano experience, this is your spot.
II Ritrovo is a gem that’s perched high up on the hillside in a residential neighborhood. When you make a reservation they’ll arrange for a car to pick you up {typically right outside of your hotel} and drive you the 20 minutes through the winding hills. The view from the car is amazing and the restaurant was even more so.
The restaurants balcony was quite and pristine and if you go early enough, you can secure a table with amazing views. If you go, make sure to order the lobster pasta and don’t be alarmed when they bring you out a fancy lobster bib to accompany it!
WHAT TO DO:
The Beach: As I mentioned earlier, there are two beaches in Positano and we spent most of our time at the main beach, Spiaggia Grande. The beaches “sand” is made up of tiny black pebbles and it’s accompanied by rows of beach chairs that are lined with the infamous orange umbrellas. The beach is split up into two parts; one where beach chairs are for rent and then the other where you can just throw a towel down on the sand. Rent a chair if you can, it was worth it for a long day of soaking up the sun. The front row chairs are $25 and the rows behind are $20.
Quick tip: They have beachside service! After about an hour at the beach we were really craving a cocktail and suddenly, out of the blue, a cute little man appeared. He asked us if we wanted to buy a trinket or if we wanted anything to eat or drink. Skeptical at first, we ordered a bottle of champagne and the man nodded and disappeared into a crowd on the boardwalk. Minutes later he reappeared carrying buckets of champagne, making his way back down the beach. This guy seriously did it all and was so sweet, so if you see him make sure to order a cocktail!
Boat Ride: We decided to do this last minute and I’m so glad we did! If you walk down the main beach you’ll see an area with booths all featuring various boat vendors. They all offer different boat models, trip times, destinations, etc. so I would shop around a little until you find one that fits your budget!
We ended up renting a little speed boat for two hours which was the perfect amount of time–that Italian sun gets hot! When we arrived for our trip we met our captain {the sweetest man who spoke no English and casually left us in a cave for 10 minutes–don’t worry he came back} loaded our drinks into a cooler and then spent two hours cruising the coast from Positano to Amalfi and taking dips in the ocean. The cost was $200 for two hours or $280 for three hours.
Quick Tip: A lot of the boat companies will require you to put a deposit down in cash and then pay the remainder when you arrive for your ride. This felt really weird to do at first, that’s a lot of cash, but if you’re booking from one of the beach vendors just know that type of payment method is normal.
Capri: Located in Italy’s Bay of Naples, Capri is a gorgeous island that’s known for its rugged landscape and upscale shopping. You can grab the ferry from Positano for the 50 minutes ride or there are a ton of boat companies who do the route as well. The ferry is the most cost efficient option and operates from April to October. You can find the schedule here.
Shopping: There are so many shops in Positano and popping in and out of them makes for a perfect day time activity. Located in the pedestrian only area of the city, the shopping strip is known for their homemade leather sandals, local art and unique lemon themed prints.
Path of the Gods: Hike the Sentiero Degli Dei (the Path of the Gods), a trail that links Agerola to Nocelle. Make sure you do some research on this before heading out so that you know the best route to take for your trip!
Day Trip: If you have a few days in Positano, I would also recommend taking a day trip to one of the other small villages on the Amalfi Coast (Sorrento, Amalfi, Ravello, etc). There is just so much to see and each spot offers something a little different.
FINAL THOUGHTS:
I think John Steinbeck said it best when he wrote, “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone. It’s houses climb a hill so steep it would be a cliff except that stairs are cut in it.”
Have you been to Positano before? What were your favorite spots?
